Laya-Gasa trek takes you into remote and isolated high country, introducing you to the unusual culture of the Layap community and allowing you to cross paths with takins. If you’re lucky, you might also spot the exotic blue poppy, Bhutan’s national flower. The natural hot springs in Gasa, a further attraction on this trek, were washed away by heavy rains in mid-2009. However, don’t let that dampen your spirits; the rest of the trek remains eminently enjoyable.
The trek begins in the Paro valley and follows the same route as the Jhomolhari trek as far as Lingzhi, before heading north into the highlands.
Summary
This trek is an extension of the Jhomolhari trek. It offers diverse flora and fauna, with a pit stop at the far-flung village of Laya and offers a good opportunity to spot blue sheep.
The Trek at a Glance
Duration: 12 days
Max Elevation: 5005m
Difficulty: Medium- Hard
Season: April to June, September to
November
Start: Drukgyel Dzong (Paro)
Finish: Gasa
Access Towns: Paro, Gasa and Punakha
Day-1: DRUKGYEL DZONG (2,580m) to SHANA ZAMPA (2,850m)
17km. 4-6 hours – (360m ascent, 80m decent)
Today you will be starting the trek after visiting few sights in Paro valley, most probably after lunch. The trek traditionally starts from the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong (although a SUV vehicle can drop you further up the trail at Shana Zampa on a feeder road).From Drukgyel Dzong, the trek starts with a short, 80m descent to the Paro Chhu river. Upstream is the small settlement of Chang Zampa, with an outreach clinic and a shop. A zam (bridge) crosses to river left here and drive through the fields of potatoes and wheat. After a while the route enters an area of apple orchards and blue pine and fir forests leaving a single house at Chobis at 2800m, soon the valley widens and you reach the army post of Gunitsawa (3810m) close to the border with Tibet, with a primary school and a shop. All army personnel and civilians are required to report to the check point; your trek permit will be checked and endorsed here. The large dormitory-style buildings across the river are the quarters for enlisted men and their families. After 10 minutes drive we reach to the camp site.
(Dinner & Overnight at the Camp: (Shana Zampa 2850m)
Day-2: Shana Zampa (2850m) to Thangthangka (3,610m)
22km. 7-8 hours. (770m ascent, 10m descent.)
Gear up yourself for a long, hard day with lots of ups and downs, made worse by all the rock-hopping required to avoid mud holes. Begin the day by climbing through conifers and rhododendrons flanking the Paro Chhu through the Jigme Dorji Wangchuk National Park. If the water is high, you might have to scramble over a few small hills to get around the river in places.
After about two hours of trekking through oaks, rhododendrons and ferns, and crossing several streams, you will reach Shing Karap, a stone house and a clearing at 3110m. Further ahead is the stone-paved trail leading left to Tremo La. This is the old invasion and trade route from Phari Dzong in Tibet, and still looks well- beaten since it’s used by army caravans to ferry rations to the border post. Beware; many trekkers have casually ambled down this trail in the past and made a long, exhausting side trip to nowhere.
Immediately after the trail junction is a wooden bridge over a side stream. Climb a short set of switchbacks over a little ridge, than descend and cross the Paro Chhu to river left on a wooden cantilever bridge at 3230m. Consider stopping here for lunch. The route now goes up and down a rocky trail through forests of birch and fir, followed by blue pine, maple and larch woods, crossing an old landslide along the way. About three hours ahead, there’s bridge back to the river right at 3560m. The trail climbs to a place where you can see a white chorten on the opposite side of the river. There is a bridge here that leads back across the river. Don’t cross it, or it’ll take you up the Ronse Ghon Chhu towards Soi Yaksa. Follow the trail on river right, and climb over a small ridge as the Paro Chhu makes a noticeable bend. Fifteen minutes from the bridge is a lovely meadow with Jhomolhari looming majestically at the head of the valley? This is Thangthangka (3610m), with a small stone shelter and a Bhutanese-style house.
(Dinner & Overnight at the Camp: Thangthangka (3,610m)
Day-3: Thangthangka(3610m) to Jangothang (4,080m)
19km. 5-6 hours. (480m ascent )
Today is not a long day, but you will be left breathless due to the significant elevation gain at high altitude. Wake up early for good views of Jhomolhari, which will disappear behind a ridge as you climb beyond camp. Less than an hour ahead, at 3730m, there’s an army post with rough stone barracks housing personnel from both the Bhutan army and the Indian Military Training team (IMTRAT). A short climb leads to a small chorten on a ridge. You are now entering yak country and will see these huge beasts lumbering across hillsides and lazing in meadows. Above the trail is the village of Soi. You cannot see it until you are beyond and above it, but you may meet people herding yaks near the river. One hour beyond Soi is Takethang, a cluster of stone houses on a plateau at 3940m. The villagers grow barley and a large succulent plant called Kashaykoni that is fed to yaks during winter. The trail follows straight across the plateau, high above the river, crossing a little stream on a bridge made of big stone laid on logs.On the opposite side are a white chorten, an outreach clinic and the few houses of Dangochang. The people of this village raise yaks and a few sheep, and some households grow potatoes, turnips and radishes. This area is snowbound from mid- November until the end of March. From here, its slow going uphill beside a side stream to the camp at Jangothang (4080m), offering a spectacular view of Jhomolhari.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp: Jangothang (4,080m)
Day-4: Acclimatization Day(4080m)
Today you should spend a day lazing in Jangothang for acclimatization, a day in Jangothang is the highlight of the trek; the views don’t get any better than here. The horsemen also take the day off, and can be seen lazing around and playing dego, a traditional discus game.
There are four major possibilities for day hikes from Jangothang. The first, and best, is a four-hour excursion up the ridge to the north of the camp. There’s no trail, but it’s a broad open slope and you can just scramble up. The ridge seems endless, but after an hour or so, you get an excellent view of Jichu Drakye. Jhomolhari is hidden behind the ridge here, but becomes visible if you continue to the highest point at 4750m. You are likely to encounter gazing yaks, and occasionally, blue sheep, on the upper slopes.
An alternative, which can be combined with the walk up the ridge, is to trek up the main valley towards the last house, then continue up the valley towards Jichu Drakye. This is the same country you’ll be walking through if, later, you decide to continue trekking over the Nyile La to Lingzhi.
A third hike goes up towards the head of the valley in the direction of Jhomolhari. There is a very rough overgrown trail that cuts across moraines and bush, leading to the foot of the mountain. You can’t get very far, but there are good views in the upper part of the valley.
The last alternative is an expedition to Tshophu, a pair of lakes that sit high on the opposite side of the river to the east, with a good supply of brown trout. To get to the lakes, follow the trail north to the last settlement in the valley. It takes about one hour to get to the ridge and then another 30 minutes following a stream to the lake.
(Dinner & Overnight at the Camp)
Day-5: Jangothang(4080m – Lingzhi(4010m)
18km. 6-7hours (840m Ascent, 870 Descents.)
Today you will pass three stone houses inhabited by yak herders, this is the last settlement in the valley and it’s extremely isolated. Around a corner there’s a spectacular view of Jichu Drakye. Descend and cross a log bridge at 4160m to the left bank of the Paro Chhu, then start up a steep traverse heading back down-stream. The trail crests at the foot of a side valley and goes eastwards. Jichu Drakye towers above the Paro Chhu valley and soon the top of Jhomolhari appears over the ridge above the camp at Jangothang. The snow peak in the middle is a secondary summit of Jhomolhari.
At 4470m, the trail traverses under the big rocks that were visible from the camp, leads left and enters a large east-west glacial valley with numerous moraines. Apart from a few small gentians it’s just grass, tundra and small juniper bushes that grow here. You may spot blue sheep on the hill-side above and see marmots darting into their burrows. Past a false summit with a cairn at 4680m, the trail approaches the ridge and you can see Jichu Drakye to the northwest. The trail dips and then climbs back up a moraine, offering spectacular views of the sharp ridge jutting out from Jichu Drakye. The final pull is up to Nyile La (4870m), about four hours from camp. You can climb higher to the northwest Jhomolhari 2 and Jichu Drakye on one side and Tserim Kang (6789m) on the other. Nyile La is frequently very windy, so descend quickly through the hillside, down to a stream on the valley floor at 4450m. There is some vegetation here, mostly grass, juniper and cotoneaster. It’s an excellent lunch spot.
The trail now goes north, contouring along the hillside high above the valley. It’s a good trail with a few small ups, but mostly down and level. Eventually you can see an army camp near the river below; the white tower of Lingzhi Dzong is visible in the distance. Following a long walk to a lookout at 4360m, the trail now descends into the large Jaje Chhu valley, making many switchbacks through rhododendrons and birches to a yak pasture on the valley floor. Jichu Drakye and Tserim Kang tower over the head of the valley and you can see some remarkable examples of moraines on their lower slopes. The camp is at Chha Shi Thang (4010m).
If you take a spare day here, you can make an excursion to Chhokam Tsho at 4340m near the base camp of Jichu Drakye. During the hike you may encounter blue sheep and musk deer.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-6: Lingzhi (4010m)- Chebisa (3880m)
10km 5-6 hours (280m ascent, 410m Descent.)
Cross the stream below the Chha Shi Thang camp on a wooden bridge and climb up the opposite side to a chorten below Lingzhi Dzong, sitting at 4220m atop a ridge and accessible via a diversion from the trail. Also known as Yugyel Dzong, it was built to control travel over the Lingzhi La, a trade route between Punakha and the Tibetan town of Gyantse.
Walk down from the dzong and rejoin the lower trail leading into Lingzhi village, hidden in a valley formed by the ridge. Wheat and barley fields carpet the upper part of the side valley. The trail crosses the lower part dotted by a few houses, a school and post office at 4080m. The Lingzhi region has a wide variety of herbs, many of medicinal value. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine in Thimphu has a herb-collecting and drying project here.
About one hour from Lingzhi, the trail turns into a side valley past a cairn and prayer flags on the ridge at 4140m. it then makes a long gradual descent to Goyul (3870m), a cluster of unusual stone houses by a stream, with dramatic rock walls towering above. Leaving Goyul, the trail climbs for an hour to a chorten. A short descent leads into the spectacular Chebisa valley, with a frozen waterfall at its head. The campsite is on a meadow opposite Chebisa (3880m). Upstream of the camp is the village of Chobiso.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-7: Chebisa (3880)- Shomuthang(4220m)
17km 6-7 hours (890m ascent, 540m Descent.)
Start out by climbing the ridge behind Chebisa, and then tackling a long, steep ascent up a featureless slope. There are large herds of blue sheep living in the rocks above. Watch for bearded vultures and Himalayan griffons flying overhead. At about 4410m the trail levels out and traverses to Gogu La (4440m), before crossing a ridge and descending into a side valley through rhododendrons.
Descend to a stream at 4170m and the climb over a small ridge through a cedar forest. The trail crests the ridge at v4210m and descends on a muddy path into the main Jholethang Chhu valley, in a deep forest of fir and birch. There’s a little climb over the side of the valley and down to Shakshepasa (3980m), the site of a helipad, marked by a big H. below, there’s a marsh and a messy stream crossing, with a good lunch spot on the other side.
The trail now goes steeply up the northern side of the valley, leveling out at about 4200m, passing a couple of herders’ huts and traversing high above the valley floor on river right to Chachim, a yak pasture at 4260m. the camp is in a cluster of brush beside a stream at the base of the valley, at Shomuthang(4220m)
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-8: Shomuthang (4220m)- Robluthang (4160m)
18km 6-7 hours( 700m ascent, 760m Descent.)
The trail climbs up the valley; starting on river right, crossing to river left and then crossing back again at 4360m. Edelweiss abounds along the trail; the snow peak visible to the southeast is Kang Bum (6526m).
Climb out of the valley through desolate country to Jhari La (4750m), about two hours from camp. North of the pass, the trail switchbacks down to a little stream at 4490m, and then becomes a rough, rocky route through rhododendrons on the streams left. Follow the stream gently downhill through bushes on river left as it makes its way to the main valley. It’s a gradual descent to a meadow by the Jholethang Chhu at 39990m, which you cross on a wooden bridge.
There is a camp called Tsheri Jathang by the river. Herds of takin migrate to this valley in summer and remain here for about four months. Takins are easily disturbed by the presence of other animals, including humans. Sometimes, it might be necessary to take a one-hour diversion, in other to leave the beasts undisturbed. The valley has been declared a special takin sanctuary and yak herders have agreed not to graze their animals in the valley while the takins are here.
The trail climbs steeply on the northern side to a crest at about 4150m. It then traverses into a side valley past a tiny lake. There are good camping places in a rocky meadow named Robluthang at 4160m.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-9: Robluthang(4160m)- Limithang (4140m)
19km 6-7 hours (850m ascent, 8700m Descent.)
Climb past the remnants of a burned forest and up the hillside through some boggy patches. Switchback to a shelf at 43909m,before turning into another large glacial side valley. Follow a stream for a while, crossing to river right on an icy log bridge at 4470m, then climb onto a moraine and traverse past lots of marmot holes. You may be able to spot blue sheep high on the slopes to the north before the trail crosses back to stream left.
It’s a tough climb from here to the pass at Sinche La at (5005m), passing a false summit with a cairn. The trail levels out a little before reaching the cairns and prayer flags on the pass, with the snow-covered peak of Gangchhen Ta filling the northern horizon.
The descent is on a rough, rocky trail that follows a moraine into another glacial valley. Eventually you arrive at the Kango Chhu, a stream below a terminal moraine that forms the end of another valley to the west.
Cross the Kango Chhu to river left on a wooden bridge at 4470m. A short distance beyond is a yak pasture and camping spot next to a huge rock. However, it’s best to continue to Limithang to camp. Follow the valley northwards, staying high as the stream falls away below you. Beyond an uninhabited stone house, the trail descends steeply to the valley floor. Switchbacks down with the terminal moraine looming above crossing the Kango Chhu on a bridge at 4260m. After a short climb through rhododendrons, the trail levels out on a plateau above the Zamdo Nangi Chhu. It’s then a short walk through a cedar forest interspersed with small meadows to Limithang (4140m), a lovely campsite in a big meadow by the river. Gangchhen Ta towers over the campsite in the distance.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-10: Limithang (4140m)-Laya (3840m)
10km 4-5 hours (60m ascent, 340m Descent.)
After 20 minutes of walking, the trail crosses to river left and enters a deep cedar forest, crossing several muddy side streams. Ahead, there’s herder’s hut of stone where the vegetation changes to fir trees draped with lichen.
Cross a large stream that flows in from the north and makes a steep rocky descent down the side of the valley to the river at 3800m, then cross to river right on a wooden cantilever bridge. A short distance later, cross back and make a stiff climb.
It’s a long walk through the heavily wooded, uninhabited valley. Descend to cross a waterfall flowing across the trail, and then traverse several small ups and downs. Near a point where you can see a single house on a ridge to the east, there is an inconspicuous trail junction. The lower trail leads to the lower part of the village. If you take the upper trail, you will cross a ridge and see the stone houses and wheat fields of Laya laid out below you with some abandoned houses and a goemba above.
Gangchhen Ta dominates the skyline to the west of the village, and from some places you can get a glimpse of Masang Gang (7165m). in the village centre is a community school, hospital, archery field and the first shop since the Paro valley.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-11: Laya (3840m) Rest Day
Explore Laya.
Today you can explore around Laya Village, where you will be having relaxing day. Laya is spread out over a hillside near the Tibetan border; it is one of the highest and remotest villages in Bhutan, at 3800m .The terrain forms the country’s primary yak breeding area. Villagers raise turnips and mustard and produce crop of wheat or barley each year before winter. During summer, people move to high pastures and live in the black tents woven from yak hair the Layaps have their own language, customs and distinct dress. The women keep their hair long and wear conical bamboo hats with a bamboo spike at the top, held on by a beaded band. They dress in black woolen jackets with silver trims and long woolen skirts with a few stripes in orange or brown. They wear lots of silver jewelry on their backs; on many women, this display includes an array of silver teaspoons.
Layaps call their village the “BEYUL” or the hidden land with the population about 3000 approx and about 140 households. There is a Lhakhang in the village and school was started in 2002 with 110 students.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-12: Laya (3840m)-Koina (3050m)
19km 6-7 hours (260m ascent, 1070m Descent.)
Below the village the trail drops back to the river. The trail exits the village through a Kang Nye (arch chorten), then passes another chorten at Tajekha as it descends on a muddy trail to a stream.
There is an alternative camping place on a plateau at 3590, next to the large Togtsherkhagi Chhu. cross the river on a wooden bridge and climb to the stone buildings of the army camp. There’s a radio station here, and a checkpoint where your names will be registered.
The route now follows the Mo Chhu downstream to Tashithang. About 30 minutes from the army post is an inconspicuous trail junction at 3340m, where the route for the Snowman trek leads uphill on a tiny path. The route to Gasa keeps going downstream on a muddy trail. Soon, it turns a corner into a side valley before crossing the Bahitung Chhu at 3290m, the lunch spot for the day.
Post meal, the trail trudges along the Mo Chhu to an overhanging rock forming a cave, and then crosses to river right at 3240m on a cantilever bridge. The canyon closes in, and the trail makes several climbs over side ridges while making its way downstream. Beyond, another cave formed by a large overhanging rock is a long steep climb, cresting on a ridge at 3390m. It’s a 150m descent to a clear side stream, and the trail then wanders up and down near the river, before climbing once again to Kohi La at 3300m.
The muddy trail stays high for about 30 minutes until it reaches a stone staircase, where it turns into a side valley, before dropping to the Koina Chhu. A new and considerably drier camp has recently been identified about two hours ahead at Chempsa (3700m).
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)
Day-13: Koina (3050m)- Gasa (2770m)
14km 6-7 hours (900m ascent, 1710m Descent.)
Today’s walk sees you tackling one last obstacle on this trek- the Bari La. Cross the bridge at Koina and start up the hill. Parts of the trail are so muddy that logs have been placed to form little bridges. The muddy trail keeps going through a deep forest of fir for almost three hours, until you reach a small rock cairn and a few prayer flags atop Bari La (3900m). Then it’s a reasonably level walk to another chorten.
The route then begins to descend, sometimes steeply, through a bamboo forest to a stream. At 3080m it rounds a corner where you can finally see Gasa Dzong on the opposite side of a large wooded side valley. The trail descends past an old chorten, and then crosses a ridge into a big side valley. It drops and crosses a large stream at 2780m, then traverses along the side of the valley to four chorten on the ridge at 2810m.
The chorten mark the southern boundary of Gasa town (2770m). The trail traverses above the football and archery ground, past several small teashops, then intersects Gasa’s main street. Trek downhill to the bazaar, with about nine shops and a police checkpoint. Campsite hour and half walk downhill at the Tsechu (hot spring) at 2240m. The Jigme Dorji National Park administers the hot-spring complex and offers various kinds of accommodation in a grove of large birch trees. There are some houses that can be rented, a few buildings that can be used as kitchens, a dormitory and numerous good camping places. It is a pleasant place to spend a day.
(Dinner & Overnight at the camp)